This spring's
dress selections are all about Gypsies, hippies and Frida Kahlo
by Sylvia Rubin
SAN
FRANCISCO CHRONICLE
January 20, 2002
Designers
comments are high lighted.
The
simple softness of cotton - so unexpected when thinking about bridal
gowns - fits right in with this spring's emphasis on romance and ruffles,
Latin inspirations and hippie chic. The bride who is looking for drama,
or the one who wants to make a quiet statement, may both be inspired
by our selection of petticoat skirts, cotton separates, tiered taffeta
skirts, tassel details, flower pins and chunky jewelry.
The current romantic look is versatile enough for brides on a budget
and for those who can live out their fantasies to the fullest. We've
scouted Bay Area bridal salons and vintage stores, artisan jeweler's
studios, small businesses and department stores to find separates from
$100, dresses from $500 to $7,000, and accessories from $22.50 to $10,000.
Bridal
experts say there is a move toward dramatic Latin and Gypsy influences,
perhaps inspired by the movies "Moulin Rouge" and the upcoming biopic
of Mexican artist Frida Kahlo. "That simple strapless look seems to
be fading out in favor of more drama and detail," says Deborah Starks,
owner of Soiree in Oakland. "Brides today want a bit more for their
money."
And
that's exactly what this bridal issue is all about.
We
present eight looks created by mixing and matching separates in varied
price ranges. There are some surprisingly beautiful bargains, such as
very affordable petticoats, for example. There are also expensive designer
gowns, locally designed veils and unusual jewelry, some wispy, others
bold, to help create any number of looks.
There
are many ways to get the new look. It's worth a trip to your local bead
shop for ideas on how to approximate the look of aquamarine, for example,
or spend a day in Chinatown hunting down affordable turquoise, jade,
garnet and citrine jewelry. Try a dance shop for tulle petticoats for
as little as $40. Flower pins, available by the dozens in fabric stores
and neighborhood boutiques, are an easy way to add a Spanish touch to
a simple dress. Shawls of all description can be found at many of the
Bay Area's Indian sari shops, for example, or online (look up "piano
shawls" to start your search), and vintage shops.
Another
trend that borrows from casual daywear and -doesn't have to break the
bank is the use of separates to create the look of a gown. "We've gotten
quite a few orders for two-piece outfits," says Starks of Soiree. "I
think that both the Moulin Rouge and Frida Kahlo influences will be
strong this year; more flounce, more ruching, more ruffles. To tell
you the truth, I'm enjoying the change."
Bridal
veil designer Stacie Tamaki of Campbell designs her veils around her
client's gowns, and lately, she says, clients are bringing in gowns
with less lace and more embroidery. "I've been seeing embroidered chiffon
overlays and embroidered organza overlays; I - haven't seen lace appliques
on a bride's gown in a while," she adds.
Bridal
shop owners also say they're hearing more and more requests for fuller
skirts and the classic to-the-floor veil. "We sell a lot of floor-length
veils," says Karen Metz, owner of Marina Morrison bridal salon in San
Francisco. "Strapless silhouettes are also still strong here, but we're
seeing more of a wish for a dramatic gown; in years past the anti-bride
was dominant. Now it seems to be OK to have a wonderful, grand dress."
Boat
necks, spaghetti straps and chiffon or organza overlays are also becoming
more popular, and bigger antique jewelry is something new she's seeing
a lot of, says Nancy Pesina, manager at Grace Bridal on Sacramento Street
in San Francisco.
"We've
just started carrying a line of chunky, costume-like pieces that are
replacing the single strand of pearls," she says. "Women are coming
in with pictures of actresses in big jewelry, and tiaras are really
hot, too - I -don't think that's ever going to go away. Really long
veils with a long train are making a comeback; brides
seem to like the drama they give."
Another
way to feel dramatic is to add fringe and tassels to your gown - and
-don't worry, the results are nothing like the green velvet curtain
dress worn by Scarlett O'Hara in her moment of desperation.
We
show two shawls here, one pure white for about $400, the other, a deep
lavender with embroidery, for about $150. Higher up the price list is
Moschino Couture's $2,500 gown with curtain pull details and tassel
ends, and Bay Area designer Reva Manicavasagar's $4,400 silk taffeta
gown that drapes on the body like a shawl.
It
was, in fact, inspired by a vintage piano shawl the designer (who creates
looks for The Guild in San Francisco), came across one day. "I just
really loved the way the tassels drape around the body," he says. "The
organza underskirt is based on the tango dress, the way it falls around
the legs and ankles. Even the buttons are covered with tiny tassels
"If
fringe is not your style, you can lavish some attention on your bridal
veil instead. Tamaki says her clients are requesting long veils that
lay close to the body, "or they want two layers of tulle of the same
length," she says.
Our
least expensive dress, shown here for about $500, keeps up with the
trends: This romantic silk velvet gown from Bella Bridesmaid in San
Francisco has a small train for a touch of drama and a spaghetti-strap
bodice. For around $1,000, we created a gown-like look from two cotton
and lace pieces, and for around $1,600 there's a Donna Karan silk top
and a flouncy, taffeta skirt from Soiree in Oakland.
Lynn
Rosenzweig of Ristarose (which will relocate and change its name to
Ginger's on Feb. 14), says the inspiration for their spring collection
are the children of hippies. "We named the dresses Dylan, Kylie, Meadow,
names we thought were reminiscent of that era," she says.
The
Dylan dress featured on these pages for about $3,000 is very ethereal,
held together with ties, giving the impression that "there is something
very free and flowy about it," Rosenzweig says. "It falls on the body
in a very unstructured way; there are all kinds of peekaboo things going
on - the neckline and arms slit open, the soft ruffles on the sleeve's
edge, it all says Gypsy, peasant, hippie. But when you take off the
overlay, you have a classic, timeless Ristarose look, an ultra-simple
spaghetti strap in silk satin crepe.
"That
Gypsy-hippie look "has always been my favorite look," says Jean Stewart,
who owns Shadows bridal and dress boutique in San Anselmo. "You can
do it on a small budget, with a mantilla or some combs in your hair,
an embroidered Pakistani shawl. It's colorful, ethnic, a bit Old World."
Stewart
says these new trends are helping her steer brides in new directions.
"I'm always trying to get our brides to branch out into something a
little more fanciful," she says.
Yellow
orchid pin, and rosette pin in hair, $80 each, at Leiko Custom Design |
